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It is hard to escape the overwhelming media coverage surrounding the recent movie revival of the infamous stage show Wicked and rightly so. Having seen it myself the weekend of its premiere, I can confirm it was nothing short of spectacular. With its colourful imagery, catchy songs, and rewarding storyline of marginalisation and friendship, act one of the two-part story made a welcoming change to the dreary winter months.
Reimagining a story with such a huge fanbase which has been told countless times on stages across the globe is no easy feat, especially through the medium of film. This is where artistry can thrive and becomes vital in providing a foundation for the much beloved and highly emotional plot to unfold. Despite the incredible performance taking centre stage, it is hard to miss the astounding costume designs, which ultimately assisted in bringing the magic of the theatre cult classic to our screens.
Paul Tazewell is the genius behind the costume design in this film adaptation. His take on the legendary pink and green colour palette along with his use of varying shades, silhouettes, and designs, has been described as fundamental to the plot’s progression and the evolution of characters. An example of Tazwell’s genius is his use of spiral patterns that feature upon multiple costumes, he considered this a reflection of Dorothy’s winding journey along the yellow brick road, creating an understanding of the link between The Wizard of Oz and Wicked.
Working closely alongside director Jonathan Chu, Tazewell aimed for each costume to not only be immaculately presented and contribute to the cinematography of the film but also for each costume to be reflective of its character and their story. This is demonstrated most crucially in the distinct depiction of Glinda and Elphaba’s self-discovery through their fashion choices. The intricate details of Glinda’s hyper-feminine dresses pay homage to the outfits of the original Glinda in The Wizard of Oz but with modern twists. Glinda’s looks are achieved through the use of layered chiffon and silk fabrics which emulate femininity and contribute to her character profile. Unlike the Broadway show, Glinda’s wardrobe in the 2024 remake is purely pink. This is of course intentional with the premise being to present Glinda as stereotypically feminine, reflecting traditional ideas of womanhood and romance. This creates a certain understanding of her character as naive and somewhat superficial, which is later debunked with Glinda being shown to hold vast emotions beyond her pristine appearance.
Concerning Elphaba’s costumes, Tazewell uses clothes to allude to her shift in character arc. This evolution was created through the use of Victorian-style silhouettes similar to the original Wicked Witch of the West. While Glinda’s costumes were inspired by all things whimsical and light, to reflect Elphaba’s grounded character Tazewell was inspired by textures found in nature, specifically mushrooms, which he used to add depth and originality to an otherwise all-black outfit. He sought to ensure that Elphaba’s clothes were just as intricate and elegant as Glinda’s, indirectly demonstrating that the two characters are not as different as they first seem. In contrast to the bright colours and soft imagery of the film, Elphaba’s dark clothes and harsh fashion choices, including her sharp shoulder pads and signature pointed hat, serve to reflect her character as an outlier. As the film progresses Elphaba’s outfits become less fitted and increasingly more dramatic, alluding to a sense of discovery in herself as she breaks away from the desire for normativity and instead seeks to ‘defy gravity’.
The work of costume designers in encapsulating the spirit of a production cannot be downplayed. For example, Tazewell’s recreation of Glinda’s bubble gum pink tule dress – this outfit alone being defining of her character. Glinda’s iconic bubble dress takes inspiration from her bubble itself, using layers of sheer fabric embellished with sequins to create a fanciful and weightless effect. Similarly, the appearance of Elphaba’s signature dress, cape, and hat were meticulously crafted to aid in delivering an empowering movie ending. Pleated chiffon details were added to the dark purple dress over black lace to achieve the almost velvet appearance from afar. Additionally, silk velvet was used to achieve the magic of Elphaba’s cape moving in the wind as she performs her grand finale.
These designs have become synonymous not only with the characters but with the production itself, as images of Cynthia Erivo and Ariana Grande sporting their respective outfits are sprawled over the media as part of the press tour. In this sense, it can readily be said that Tazewell and his team played a crucial role in character development through the execution of his designs. Ultimately, what would such a film be without the outfits to support such dynamic characters and their storylines?
Away from the screens, premier carpets act as the stage for cast and celebrity guests alike to show off their looks inspired by the outfits of the film. With red carpets being brought to life with splashes of pink and green, we are sure to see more of Wicked’s influences in day-to-day life as we head into the new year. After all, the hype surrounding Wicked is sure to be far from over.
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